Use a gasket scraper no power tools. I would stuff a rag in the port. Or rotate the motor so the valves are closed then compressed air blow the junk out.
While you’re in there you should replace engine brackets as well. I was being cheap and only bought motor mount, shortly after replacing the engine bracket broke just driving down the road…
Ugh, I was being cheap it I know I should have. And I guess I might as well, what’s a other couple bucks…
So I scrapped the old gasket off with a razor while holding the shop vac over it. I took my time and cleaned the ever living crap out of this thing. Bolted it together using the torque specs on AutoZone website. Took me a while as a first timer but not all that bad.
Pushed it out of the garage to turn it around for phase two. All in all I’m happy with the ride height in the front. It’s just a little taller than the TJ with a 3.5"-4" lift.
Looks Good
Making great progress, Is it going to see trail this season?
Not this year. Still sooo much to do. Even when I feel accomplished for finishing a project, I do a mental list and laugh
Started on the backend today. Axle out and 2+year old box of parts finally ready to be busted out.
Artec backhalf and Ruff Stuff rear 4link with an 8.8
I chopped the back half of the frame this weekend. Passenger side is decent.but the drivers side is pretty rusty. Not sure how much needs to go and how I’m going to cap it yet. Probably safety caps but I would hate to buy a section just to chop half of it.
Made some good progress mentally at least. So I turns out I cut a little too much off the frame. Artec calls for 5" from the body mount, I left 3". I spliced in a frame section and I have a safetycap section I will cap both sides with. My buddy Dan can by to help me with the rest of my garage wiring. I finally have working outlet throughout the garage and another shop light. The garage just feels cleaner without all of the extension cords all over the place. I can’t wait to do some more work.
progress no matter how small is still progress.
Getting the back half kit going. I put together the passenger side the other day and I was fitting up the driver’s side but ran out of wire.
I got the back half of the frame together and mocked up in place. Dragged the rear axle to try and give me a sense of accomplishment. Time to take some rear measurements and figure out the four link…
Trying to figure out my rear 4 link setup. So many rules. Right now I’m battling a compromise between roll axis and anti-squat.
while your at it, move your rear axle back. Long wheelbase is a good thing and should help with your math problems
I’m at 104" wheelbase. That gives me something around a 0 degree departure
have you weighed your rig? sprung and unsprug weights will effect the calcs.
the antisqat doesn’t look bad on your sheet
No, rough guestimate. Not really sure how I would go about weighing it. Do the numbers look reasonable from your experience? I can’t really seam to get my ride height antisquat any better than the high 50’s/low 60’s. I could sacrifice some body roll axis angle but it’s a big jump for little return. I know I can limit the body roll with stiffer springs and better shocks so maybe the trade off won’t be as drastic once it’s all together. I hope to tack some of the brackets on soon but I need to buy a rear axle truss that will work with my dimensions. I like the Barn’s Off-road truss.
I would shoot for an antiswat of 80% at ride height if possible.
What do you think is an extreme number for body roll axis angle. I don’t want to battle the side hill crab walk/rollover steer/ under steer. From what I have e read, 5degrees is a high number but with some stiffer springs or an antirock bar I could over come a higher number.
You know anyone who’d have those scales they use for race cars where a scale is placed under each tire