The unit bearings have a press in style fit, with an inner flange that bears a lot of the weight. I disagree with the fact that most of the weight is born on the bolts. Most of the weight is actually born upon the inner flange/lip (Think about how you have to take these off, especially ones that have been on for a little while and were not anti-seized) If that spacer was not welded in, the Press in lip on the wheel bearing would really not be of much use, because that lip would be grabbing the spacer, and not bearing weight on the knuckle itself. You would essentially take the bolts out, and the whole thing would fall right off, with the spacer still pressed onto the wheel bearing.
I ended up cleaning some welds and fish plating the shackle mount hole through the frame. First time in a while that a front axle has been under the Jeep, well kind of. The mounts I bought are set up for a larger tube diameter and center pin diameter. I’ll have to make them work though.
Made a little more progress today. Finally got the front end resting on the axle. I modified the perches I bought because centering the axle puts the perch hanging over the housing by about 1/2". They make offset perches but I’ll try to make these work.
I’m trying to set the caster but I’m getting different numbers on either side of the axle. Seems a little wired.
By 4-5 degrees, I set the driver’s side to 9 and the passenger side measure 5-6. Seams crazy that it can be that far off. This axle was under my TJ. I’m pretty sure that both sides of the original axle where at about 9 degrees. I have to take some more measurements to see what’s going on. I’m not sure what would cause two different numbers.
My research showed that it can be off 1-2deg from the factory, but 4-5deg is odd.
Have you checked the tube for straightness? (I know you don’t want to hear this)
If it’s an empty shell, you simply run a straightedge down the inside or the tubes. If it sits flat against the tubes, you are good. . I have one we used for my rear axle if you need one, but they are fairly cheap at Lowes or HD
Magnetic dial indicator. When I pulled the old axle, both sides measured at around 9 degrees at full droop. Admittedly I’m not at full droop during my measurement now, but not sure if it really matters with it being this far off. I can’t think of any other way to be this far off, side to side. I’ll pull the axle out, put it on the bench and take some measurements.
Finally back under it’s own weight. Im happy with the ride height considering it’s spring over. I need to get a few things still ie. steering, longer bolts for the brake caliper bracket, diff cover, motor mounts and then I can start moving to the back. I already bought a transfer case cross member but I have to figure out how much I can push my transfer case up without needing a body lift.
Got a little more done today. Hacked the transfer case cross member on… What I learned today, welding on round tube is not easy and always look at the thickness of the metal before you weld. I ended up burning a hole in the cross member bracket to frame mount. I tried to clean it up and weld a splice patch over it, I hope it hold up… I’m still a work in progress but I’m learning…
I wanted to push it out of the garage so I backed up an old steering set up had by grinding the taper off the stud… It will work as a mock up. I will need to figure out the knuckle side mount for the drag link because it won’t clear the springs. The rest should be standard.
