Driveshaft help needed

So we went to RI driveshaft yesterday and talked to Carl. He said to make the shaft would be around $300, but then he he said that we would need a new yoke, which would be around $100, so we agreed and payed a $200 deposit and he was going to look for a new yoke. Today I was reading here:

jeepforum.com/forum/f13/wj-f … es-806580/

and realized that this guy did not have to replace his yoke and that the new driveshaft connected right to the cv. So…why did Carl say that we NEEDED the new yoke because the double carden driveshaft could not connect to the cv yoke?

The guys at RI Driveshaft are great. However, I went elsewhere for the Jeep. They don’t have the stuff that we need for these things all the time. Usually they are straight forward telling you that. The problem with the shafts for the Jeeps is the size of the slip yokes. They have standard short ones only, and when dealing with a front shaft on a Jeep, we need the longer ones.

That said, if you look at the picture of the “Carolina” shaft: you will notice that the double cardon is attached to a flange that is attached to the drive flange on the Transfer case. If you were to replace the drive flange with a Yoke to attach the u-joint directly to the transfer case, the ujoint would be closer to the case and put less strain on it. The amount of space between the double cardon joint and the case adds stress on the output shaft and case in that area. They have been known to crack. I swaped out my output from the stock flange to the yoke. I went with the 1330 size joints. Stronger that 1310 and smaller than a 1350. Also the 1330 yoke is available anywhere since it was stock in the front of later TJ’s. Good news for when I break it.

I love your positive attitude, Steve… :laughing:

sorry, back on topic now…

So basically… Get the new yoke from RI driveshaft because it will be stronger than the cv?

maybe I’m missunderstanding, it will still have a cv. if the RIDS guy says that is the way, Then I would do it. :slight_smile:

A new yoke at the t-case side apparently? I would agree. You want 1310 yokes at both the t-case and axle ends. I would not consider anything else.

Bigger is always better - 1330 or 1350 if you can fit it. A 1310 is much weaker than the factory setup. If you’ve got a v-8 in that thing you’ll need as big as you can get it and still make it fit.

Another way to look at it is if there was one component in the drivetrain you wanted to fail first it would be the driveshaft u-joiint . . .

I think 1310’s are fine for stock axles.

I talked to carl again yesterday and he said that he could not find a yoke that would fit right, so he was going to connect a flange to the double carden and connect it to the cv yoke.

venting…

So April 12th we first went to RI drive shaft and they took the measurements to build our new drive shaft. April 14th I spoke to Carl over the phone and he told me that he could not fine a yoke that fit so he was going to connect a flange to the double carden. So after about two weeks with no call I called and was told that they had not made it yet but they were going to. A couple days later I called again and was told that all the parts were in the back, but they had not made it yet. a couple days later I called once again and was told that it would be done the next day, but to call around 12. So my father called around 12 and was again told that it was not done yet but to call back. So last thursday we called again and were told that it would be done friday (May 14) at 12 but to call before we came. So my father called at 12 and was told that it would be done at 4pm and that he could pick it up then. Because my father had to go to work he said that he would pick it up monday (today) morning and to please make sure it was done. So this morning my father called and got no answer, so he began to drive up there to get the driveshaft. Half way to RI drive shaft he gets a call from Carl saying that something had gone wrong and that it was still not done and to call tommorow (tuesday May 18). So April 12 - May 17 and still no driveshaft.
:imp: :imp: :imp: :imp:

How long does it usually take to make a drive shaft? :imp:

ouch, that sucks man. i just had mine lengthened. i dropped it off on a Friday at 5 and went there to pick it up on Wends. it wasn’t done so i told him i need it ASAP because i had to get to work. it was done by 11. this thing better one pretty driveshaft when you finally get it.

I’m sorry to hear that Gomez. I have always had to push them a little, but nothing like this. does he know you are in a jeep club that sends him work? maybe the flood is the reason?

Another buddy with a a broken drive shaft (besides derick) told me he brought his drive shaft to RI driveshaft about 3 weeks ago and it was done the next day.
I understand the flooding…but almost 5 weeks?

Yea, they sometimes need a little pushing. You might try to negotiate a better deal because of the wait.

With all the parts in hand and the correct tools you are looking at minutes worth of actual effort to assemble a driveshaft.

hey Axle, i saw your pic from this weekend… time for an upgrade?

not yet Derick! I want to see if I get another season out of it. I would like to start another build (bobbed scrambler style w/dana 60s) and still keep wheeling my cj till its done.

nice! something a little different. sounds like fun.

Hey Gomez, did you end up getting your driveshaft?

i just got a call from RI Driveshaft saying they gave me the wrong driveshaft… :unamused: and if i could go there and bring it back and pick my old one up. some how the one he gave me fit? was just wondering if your the one this was for

well at least its been tested. held up well this weekend :smiley: