ty i already called and maybe I can work out a swap with him or a swap with some cash. Hmm maybe he needs a currie HD steering or a winch…This could work out perfect.
BTW, in case its not clear, this axle bolts into a YJ with leaf springs. You would need new brackets to make it work with your TJ. We can get those brackets welded on there no problem.
Looks like I would need a disc brake conversion kit also to do this.
The axle already has disc brakes. I think you could just bolt it on and drive it. That’s what most guys do. Drums usually have a residual pressure valve to keep the shoes against the drum but I don’t know if TJ’s have a RPV. In any event, easy enough to fix.
you should be all set with what is there but Eric is right, you’ll need to cut all the brackets off and buy and weld on new ones (around $250). i have a buddy that could do the welding for you for real cheap. also as a note, i got my 8.8 with 4.10 for $150 at a junkyard so i wouldnt give him anymore than that.
if the other axle is leaking at the drive shaft thats a pinion seal and no easy task to change out, i wouldn’t bother. canalize it, take out the axle shafts and bear hubs for trail spares. take the knuckles off and put them on the shelf and take the carrier with the spider gears out of the case and put them on the shelf just in case to. toss the rest.
you shouldnt have to do anything else
Thanks for the advise. I ripped the Currie HD off already and will rip apart the rest.
Never “toss” steel (or any other metal) always scrap, get something in return for you efforts 
aussie is on backorder right from the factory.
did u pick up the currie setup for yourself or is it still available? cuz if it is i want it!!!
I picked it up to have as a spare for the new one I put on a few weeks ago. If you want it I can sell it since I have my stock as a trail spare since your running a stock set up.
its entirely up to u. i was looking into jcr but i dont really wanna ream cuz thers not a lot of metal to begin with. so currie looks like the best option. if u wanna keep it as a spare thats cool. but if u wanna sell it tht would be even cooler 
Just food for thought. I paid $150 for my 8.8 (from junkyard with no brake hardware).
I’m now in roughly $1200 (all new brake hardware, mounts, diff cover, aussie locker, super 8.8 kit, bearings, etc…)
My .02 - don’t lock the 35 - even with a locked 8.8 in the rear I should have locked the front first - the back end will engage and drive your front tires around the path of least resistance regardless of where you actually want them to go. You’ll break the 35 anyway.
Lock the front, do it right, take your time. It’s a much easier and cheaper upgrade to lock the front than swap out a rear.
ur also in a different category jon. leafs front and rear i would lock the front first maybe. with coils especially front and rear, i would absolutely lock the rear first. hell i can stay in 2wd and lock the rear and do a lot of stuff that most would have it in 4wd. just my .02
I’m so confused which way to go at this point. Since the money tree is bare I guess it doesn’t really matter. I tried to work out a swap for the 8.8 but it didn’t work so I’m just gonna stand pat for now.
Yup.
Craig, standing pat isn’t a bad plan. Keep your eyes open for a decent 8.8 (that one on CL was nice because it included disc brakes) for cheap and then slowly build it (just not as slow as somebody else we know . . . ). The Super 8.8 is sweet but just the stock 8.8 shafts would be a big improvement over the D35. With regards to a locker both Aussie/Lock-Rite can be had pretty cheap but Detroit’s are MUCH smoother and considerably stronger. And then you have the ARB . . .
as far as lockers go i like the reviews of the OX
how much do you want for the steering, mine is starting to go
edit… i didtn knowtice that this was 3 pages log lol so it might be gone now
Sorry Ricky steering is gone. Found a nice home on a blue XJ.