Derick, Crown also sells stock wagon springs as another option, I have a set of on one of my CJ’s. Although not as flexy they won’t bend or break nearly as easy.
Mike, I don’t recall moore selling those hangers last time I did a spring swap I just used CJ rear hangers in the front. Do you plan to move the box forward as well?
Did you contemplate going RS at any point prior to installing the hangers? Good progress on your rig!
Side note: front wagon springs are 47" with a 2" offset pin.
Link for the hangers ( thought I was gonna have to make them myself until i found these:
mountainoffroad.com/_e/CJ_YJ … Hanger.htm
As far as the Box is concerned, I will try to find a way to keep the box in its stock location. I saw a pitman arm specifically designed for this setup, but never saved the link, so I have to look a bit harder.
To answer your other question, I’v never been a big fan of shackle reversal on a rock crawler.
Thanks!
If it were me I wouldn’t use a shorter pitman arm, that changes the amount of steering throw and effects the leverage ratio between box and knuckles. The same company you bought the hangers from sells a one piece bracket that moves the box forward 1”. Plus it’s beefier then the stock thin 2 piece unit. I would mock up the links before hand.
.
Hope this helps.
I was not aware of that product. Cool!
It would actually be weaker than my current bracket, My bracket has a large bolt thru the frame, holding it solid. That shouldn’t matter, as I want to add hydro assist anyhow.
My next move is to mock up the axle and get it all welded together. Then move on to steering setup.
Question: I am swapping from TRE’s to Heims: Do I need to drill the taper out of the high steer and pitman arms?
Yes
I would drill them out so you can use the largest bolt possible with the heims.
Usually 5/8 to 3/4 holes for hiems.
Anyone have that bit?
I think I might have one. I’ll check when I get home tonight and let you know.
I borrowed one from a friend, if no one offers one up their not expensive to buy.
I’m pretty sure Gene did his so he might have a bit
Cool, I get to steal more of Gene’s tools!
I have a 5/8" taper bit if needed
More work done today.
Mocked up, measured, re-measure, and re-measured the axle. Sorry, no mock up picks. just forgot.
Springs in place:
Welded axle, to include c-gussets, perches, and tubes to the pumpkin:
Rolled out and cracked open the diff cover on the Rodeo D44 (not looking forward to cutting and grinding all those tabs):
Gear oil was very clean and gears were in great shape:
At this point, I need to order a bunch of parts for the front, then I can move forward.
That the one that came from mike
Yup came out of my old rodeo.
I did not know it came out of YOUR Rodeo. What year was it?
98 i think
Setting up gears for the first time. I have done many, many things on cars and trucks over the years, but very few as frustrating as setting up these gears.
I didn’t take pics all the way thru, so the only pics I have are the those of the pattern I ended up with when I had to stop.
I started with the same pinon stacks I pulled, as I was using the same gears and carrier. After a number of adjustments, this is the clusterfuck I ended up with:
If anyone with gear experience has time on Saturday afternoon (3pm) or on Sunday AM, I could really use some help. FWIW, I have small windows of 2-3 hours to work on this, due to all the stuff we have going on with the kids. Weeknights are a wash.
im free later this week if you still need help.
here are some notes that I kept while doing gears.
To decrease backlash – add shims to RGS
To increase backlash - add shims to non-RGS
Approx 0.007” change in backlash for every 0.010” carrier movement
Pinion Depth
Set to: Contact pattern cantered between top and root.
Top contact – add shims
Root contact – remove shims
