i want to get the wheels inmotion, or at least determine my budget for a regear and potential addition of lockers. i’m assuming doing the two at the same time would make sense, seeing has how the dif would be torn down, as regearing front and rear at the same time is necessary? can i maybe do a locker one axel at a time if i cant afford both at the same time. also, is it worth investing in my current d30 and 35, or should i be looking for used axel setup that would suit my needs…d44? my rig is a 95 yj with an 2.5l, 3-1/2" of lift and 32" bf mt’s. i believe the the axels to be stock with 410 gears

any input would be appretiated

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Regearing is EXPENSIVE. To do it right you are looking at $750 per axle and that is without lockers. Throw in another $250-$1000 per axle for lockers depending on the style (lunchbox is the cheapest, selectable is the most expensive).

On top of that, it does not make much sense to regear a D35 if you plan on larger than stock tires, lockers, and actually wheeling it. Here is what I would recommend:

4.10’s are not too bad for 32’s - 33’s. You would be better off with 4.56’s with the 2.5 but can get buy with the 4.10s just fine. If the vehicle is not a daily driver that you take on the street in the snow then throw a lunch box locker (Aussie/Spartan/Lock-Rite) in the front. It will cost about $250 or so and a couple hours of work.

Try to find a Ford 8.8 with 4.10’s to swap in place of the D35. Ideally one with an open diff so that you can put a lunchbox locker in it. Done.

This would be the cheapest route to get yourself trail ready.

not a daily driver, but does get driven around town, mostly weekends, trips to the liquor store, beach maybe… i was thinking 456’s, maybe even 488s. i know the little i4 is not a power plant, but it certainly dogs with the 32’s. where do i begin to look for a ford 8.8, and forgive my ignorance, what is “8.8” outside of being a rear axel?

8.8 is the ring gear diameter. You can find these axles in late 90’s vintage Ford Explorers. Its probably the most popular rear axle swap for Jeep Wranglers. An added bonus is that you can get disc brakes out of the deal. Several guys in the club have done this swap. Derick just did his a week or so ago.

i met derickat the cleanup the other day, i remember him mentioning that, i’ll have to send him a pm. do i begin hitting the local junk yards, do you know of any internet resources i could use other than craigslist/ebay

thanks for all the info

8.8 should be pretty simple for a yj. a junkyard 8.8 should run you a couple hundred bucks. try to find some local junkyards and give them a call. tell them you are looking for a complete 8.8 out of a late 90’s Ford Explorer. and like Eric said. if its a non limited slip you can put a full time locker in and be all set for local driving. the diff is a little different in the limited slip units but either way you’ll be ok. $750 is a safe bet for a complete regear and a full time locker install. i would say if you dont drive it on the highway a ton gear it to 4.88. you should be ok with the D30 in the front for a while, it isnt a huge upgrade going to a D44 in the front if you need more beef in the front your ready for D60’s.

a lot of my research was for the TJ swap but there is a lot of good info out there. just do a search for 8.8 yj swap.

An 8.8 swap on your YJ is almost so easy the factory should have done it. Your leaf sprung just like the Ford it comes out of. Explorer or Ranger. Most are aquired for between 100-200 bucks. The leaf spring perches work out to be about 1" too far outboard vs the Wrangler. But, they do bolt up without a problem. I know some people who have done just that. Unbolt, install an Aussie or other lunchbox locker, and install in the Jeep w/ 4.10’s. If you leave the front open you should be good for a while with the stock front axle as long as the tires don’t get too out of hand.